Wolfgang Moroder / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0)Naples (Napoli) is the great, chaotic capital of southern Italy, a city of narrow lava-stone alleys, laundry strung between balconies and a bay watched over by Mount Vesuvius. It is loud, layered and intensely alive: the historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage site where Greek, Roman, Baroque and modern Naples pile…
Best time to visit
Ride Metro Line 1 just to see the Toledo station, an award-winning 'art station' whose blue mosaic light-well feels like descending into the sea.
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A small Baroque chapel housing the Veiled Christ, a marble sculpture so lifelike the shroud seems to be real cloth. Timed tickets sell out, so book online well ahead. No photos are allowed inside, and the visit is short but unforgettable.
A guided walk through the tunnels, cisterns and quarries 40 metres below the old town, from Greek aqueducts to World War II air-raid shelters. Cool and atmospheric, with a few narrow passages. Wear closed shoes and go with an official guided tour.
One of the world's great archaeology museums, holding the finest finds from Pompeii and Herculaneum, the Farnese marbles and a famous 'secret cabinet' of Roman erotic art. Ideal to visit before or after Pompeii to see where the mosaics and frescoes ended up.
The long, straight lane that slices the old town in two, packed with churches, street shrines, pizzerias and the nativity-figure workshops of Via San Gregorio Armeno. Free to wander; come with an appetite, watch your bag in the crowds and simply follow the flow.
The must-try local dishes, sweets and fruits — including the exotic ones you won't find back home.
Dishstu_spivack / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 2.0)The original pizza, born in Naples: a soft, blistered, wood-fired dough topped simply, most famously the margherita of San Marzano tomato, mozzarella and basil created in 1889 in the colours of the Italian flag. True Neapolitan pizza is a protected craft with a soupy, foldable centre and a puffy charred crust.
Eat it fresh from the oven; locals often fold a slice 'a portafoglio' (wallet-style) and eat it on the move. The classic marinara has no cheese at all, just tomato, garlic and oregano.
DishRa Boe / Wikipedia (CC BY-SA 3.0 de)A soft, milky, protected DOP cheese made from the milk of water buffalo raised in the Campania plains around Naples. Tangier and more complex than cow's-milk fior di latte, it is eaten fresh in slices with a little oil, torn over pizza, or served in a caprese with tomato and basil.
Buy it the same day from a caseificio (dairy) or good deli and eat it at room temperature, never straight from the fridge, to taste it at its best.
Dishkochtopf (Flickr) / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 2.0)A deep Sunday ragu quite unlike the northern bolognese: whole large cuts of beef and pork are simmered for many hours in tomato and wine until meltingly tender. The rich sauce dresses the pasta as a first course, and the meat follows as a second, the centre of a traditional Neapolitan family lunch.
Look for it as a weekend special in traditional trattorie, often served over paccheri or ziti pasta; the meat is usually offered separately afterwards.
SweetSaggittarius A / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)The signature Neapolitan pastry, a shell-shaped case filled with sweet ricotta scented with candied citrus and semolina. The riccia has crisp, flaky, sea-shell layers, while the frolla uses a smoother shortcrust. It is the classic Naples breakfast, eaten warm at a pastry-bar counter.
Have the riccia fresh and still warm in the morning when it is crispest; a good one shatters into flakes with the first bite.
SweetNemo bis / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0)A light, airy yeast cake soaked in rum syrup until it is moist and boozy, a beloved Neapolitan dessert that came to the city via the French court centuries ago. Sold in every pastry shop as small mushroom-shaped cakes or larger versions, sometimes filled with cream or fruit.
'Sei nu babba' is even a local term of endearment; eat it after a meal with an espresso, and try a version topped with cream and wild strawberries if you see one.
Neapolitans take their espresso seriously: short, strong, often pre-sweetened and served scalding hot in a warmed cup, downed standing at the bar in seconds. The city is also the home of the 'caffe sospeso', a coffee paid for in advance and left for a stranger who cannot afford one.
Order simply 'un caffe' for an espresso, drink it at the counter for the local price and experience, and consider leaving a sospeso to join the tradition.
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The official airport bus links Capodichino with the central station (Piazza Garibaldi) and the port in around 20 to 25 minutes for a low flat fare. By far the cheapest and simplest option, running frequently through the day.
Licensed white taxis charge a set flat fare, not a meter, between the airport and city zones. Convenient with luggage; confirm the tariffa predeterminata before departing and take only cars from the official rank.
Frecciarossa and Italo high-speed trains connect Naples Centrale with Rome in around 70 minutes and Florence, Bologna and Milan beyond. Book ahead for the best fares. The easiest way to reach Naples from elsewhere in Italy.
A modern metro line looping through the centre, famous for its 'art stations' such as Toledo and Universita. Handy for hills and longer hops, with one cheap ticket covering the wider transit network for a set time.
Four funicular railways climb the steep Vomero and hillside districts, and city buses fill the gaps. Slower and sometimes crowded, but scenic and covered by the same standard ticket. Validate on boarding.
Licensed white taxis are useful at night or with luggage. Ask for the meter or an agreed official fare, and expect small legitimate surcharges for nights, holidays and bags. Keep small change and request a receipt.
The historic centre is compact and best explored on foot, though pavements are narrow, uneven and shared with scooters. Watch the traffic, cross decisively with locals, and wear sturdy shoes for the lava-stone streets.
Spring (April to June) and early autumn (September and October) are the sweet spots, with warm, sunny days, manageable crowds and perfect weather for day trips to Pompeii and the coast. July and August are hot, humid and very busy, with many locals away in mid-August, while winter is mild but wetter and some sights keep shorter hours.
Two full days cover the historic centre, the Sansevero Chapel, the Archaeological Museum, the underground and the seafront at a good pace. Add a day each for Pompeii, Vesuvius or the Amalfi Coast and Capri if you want to use Naples as a base.
Pompeii and Herculaneum are 15 to 35 minutes away on the Circumvesuviana, with Vesuvius above them. The island of Capri is a fast ferry from the port, and the Amalfi Coast and Sorrento are reachable by train and bus for a long but rewarding day.
Naples is generally safe for visitors, and violent crime against tourists is rare, but petty theft such as pickpocketing and bag-snatching is common in crowds and on transport. Keep valuables secure, stay aware in busy areas, and stick to well-lit streets at night.
The Alibus shuttle is the cheapest option, reaching the central station and port in about 20 to 25 minutes. Licensed white taxis charge a set fixed fare to city zones; agree the tariffa predeterminata before setting off and use only the official rank.
Naples is the birthplace of pizza, and famous historic pizzerias in the old town serve a classic margherita for only a few euros, though queues can be long. A good neighbourhood pizzeria one street away is often just as excellent and quicker to get a table.