Sosotedrd / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)Batumi is the capital of Georgia's Adjara region and the country's main seaside resort, a warm, subtropical city where the Black Sea meets a skyline of glassy towers, Belle Epoque facades and palm-lined promenades. Its heart is the 7-kilometre Boulevard, a green ribbon of cafes, cycle paths, sculptures and beaches…
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Ride the Argo cable car up Anuria hill late in the day for a sundowner with a wide view over the towers, the port and the Black Sea before the light goes.
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The city's famous seafront promenade, first laid out in 1884 and now stretching about 7 kilometres past cafes, fountains, sculptures, a Ferris wheel and the beach. Walk, cycle or rent a quad, and time the western end for sunset over the Black Sea. Free and open at all hours.
A 130-metre landmark tower on the Boulevard, its double-helix frame wrapped in the 33 letters of the Georgian alphabet. It is most striking photographed from the promenade, especially when lit at night. Upper-level access can be limited, so check locally before queueing.
A cable car that climbs about 250 metres up Anuria hill for sweeping views over the city, the port and the Black Sea, with a cafe and small complex at the top. The round trip takes under an hour plus time at the summit. Go on a clear day and ideally near sunset.
One of the largest botanical gardens of the former Soviet Union, founded in 1912 on a green cape north of the city, with thousands of plant species arranged by world region and paths down to sea viewpoints. Allow two to three hours and wear comfortable shoes for the slopes.
The must-try local dishes, sweets and fruits — including the exotic ones you won't find back home.
DishEugene Krasnaok / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 4.0)The signature dish of Batumi and the Adjara region: a boat-shaped bread filled with molten cheese, topped with a pat of butter and a raw egg yolk that you stir into the hot cheese at the table. The boat is said to represent a ship on the Black Sea and the yolk the sun, and the dish holds protected Geographical Indication status in Georgia.
Mix the butter and yolk into the cheese quickly while it is piping hot, tear off the pointed ends of the boat and dip them in; one large one easily feeds two.
DishFrancesc Fort / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)Large, twisted Georgian dumplings filled with spiced meat and hot broth, or with cheese, mushrooms or potato. They are eaten by hand: hold the knot on top, bite a small hole, sip the juice, then eat the rest and leave the tough top knot on your plate.
Do not eat the doughy top knot; a stack of five or six makes a meal, and a dusting of black pepper is the classic finish.
SweetHelen Owl / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)A traditional sweet often called 'Georgian Snickers': strings of walnuts or hazelnuts dipped again and again in thickened grape juice, then dried into a dense, chewy candle shape. It is naturally made with no added sugar and sold in bright rows at Batumi's covered market and roadside stalls.
Choose ones that are still slightly soft and pliable rather than hard; the walnut versions from the market are the most authentic.
DrinkBernard Gagnon / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 4.0)A strong clear Georgian grape spirit, distilled from the pomace left after winemaking and often compared to grappa. It is a point of local pride, poured as a welcome and a toast, and sold both in bottles and homemade from villages around Adjara.
It is potent, so sip it slowly and expect a toast; buy sealed bottles from proper shops rather than unlabelled ones if you are unsure of the strength.
A rich Adjaran specialty of local cheese melted slowly in plenty of brown butter until it turns stretchy and golden, eaten hot straight from the pan and scooped up with bread. It is deeply comforting mountain food and a true taste of the Adjara region beyond the coast.
Look for it at Adjaran or mountain-style restaurants; it is very rich, so share it as a starter alongside khachapuri rather than as a whole meal.
Georgia is one of the oldest wine regions on earth, famous for wines fermented in buried clay qvevri vessels, including amber (orange) whites made on their skins. While the great vineyards are inland, Batumi's restaurants and wine bars pour a wide range, and a house wine is often served by the jug.
Ask for a qvevri or amber wine to taste the traditional style, and try a glass of local semi-sweet Kindzmarauli if you prefer something softer.
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Cómo funciona: Drivers inside or just outside the terminal may approach arrivals offering a ride at a 'special' price that is well above the short, cheap trip into town, or steer you away from the public bus.
Cómo evitarla: Book a Bolt on the app, or use the No.10 city bus from the stop in front of the terminal. If you take a taxi, agree the fare first and know that central Batumi is only a short drive from the airport.
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The municipal No.10 bus links Batumi airport with the centre for a token fare, paid by card or coins, in around 20 to 25 minutes. Easily the cheapest way in, though it can be tight with large luggage and runs to a fixed timetable.
The Bolt ride-hailing app works in Batumi and fixes the fare in advance, usually cheaper and clearer than a waiting taxi. You will need mobile data or wifi to book; the drive into the centre is short.
Taxis wait outside the terminal for the short trip into town. They rarely use a meter, so agree the price before you get in. Convenient late at night or with heavy bags, but confirm the fare to avoid being overcharged.
Bolt is the easiest way to move around Batumi, with fares fixed in the app and no need to negotiate. Cars are plentiful and cheap across the centre, which makes it the default choice over hailing a taxi on the street.
Modern city buses cover Batumi and nearby areas for a very low flat fare paid by card or coins. Useful for longer hops like the Botanical Garden, though routes and stops take a little working out for a short visit.
Central Batumi is flat and compact, and the Boulevard, Old Town and beach are all easily walked. Strolling the seafront is one of the city's main pleasures, best in the cooler morning and evening hours.
Late spring (May to June) and early autumn (September to October) are the most comfortable, with warm days, the sea warm enough to swim and thinner crowds than peak summer. July and August are hot, humid and busy, when Batumi is at its liveliest but also its most crowded and expensive. Batumi is one of the wettest places in Georgia, so rain is possible in any season, and winter is mild but grey and very wet.
Two to three days cover the Boulevard, Old Town, the cable car, the Botanical Garden and a couple of good meals at a relaxed pace. Add more if you want beach time or day trips into the Adjaran mountains for waterfalls and villages.
The centre is flat and walkable, and for anything further the Bolt app is cheap, fixes the fare in advance and avoids taxi haggling. Low-cost city buses reach outlying sights like the Botanical Garden for a token fare.
Yes, Batumi is generally safe and Georgians are known for their hospitality. Serious crime against visitors is uncommon; the main annoyances are taxis without meters overcharging and the odd currency or bill trick, all easily managed with the Bolt app and a little care.
Georgia uses the lari (GEL). Cards are widely accepted in hotels, restaurants and shops, and bank ATMs are easy to find, but carry some cash for markets, small cafes, buses and street stalls. Count your change and compare exchange booth rates.
Late spring and early autumn offer warm weather, a swimmable sea and fewer crowds than July and August, which are hot, humid and busy. Batumi is very rainy year-round, so pack a light waterproof whenever you come.