Jorge Franganillo / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 2.0)Fez (Fes) is Morocco's oldest imperial city and its spiritual and cultural heart, a place where a medieval world still runs its daily business. At its centre is Fes el-Bali, one of the largest car-free urban areas on earth, a labyrinth of thousands of narrow lanes where donkeys and handcarts still carry the loads.…
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Climb to a rooftop cafe or the Merenid Tombs at sunset for a sweeping view over the whole medina as the call to prayer rises across the city.
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The walled old city and a UNESCO World Heritage site, a vast car-free maze of souks, workshops, fountains and mosques. Simply wandering is the main attraction. Download an offline map, wear good shoes and give yourself half a day to get pleasantly lost.
The city's iconic medieval tannery, a honeycomb of stone vats filled with natural dyes, worked by hand as it has been for centuries. View it from the terraces of the surrounding leather shops, which offer the panorama free but will expect you to browse. A sprig of mint helps with the strong smell.
A 14th-century Marinid religious school and one of the few in Fez open to non-Muslims, with a breathtaking courtyard of carved cedar, stucco and zellige. Small but exquisite, it is among the finest examples of Moroccan craftsmanship. A modest entry fee applies.
A small, intensely decorated 14th-century madrasa tucked beside the spice and perfume souk near Al-Qarawiyyin. Its intricate tilework and carved detail reward a slow, quiet visit. Combine it with the surrounding markets and the mosque exterior.
The must-try local dishes, sweets and fruits — including the exotic ones you won't find back home.
DishBex.Walton / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 2.0)Fez is the birthplace of this extraordinary sweet-savoury pie, layers of paper-thin warqa pastry wrapped around spiced pigeon or chicken, almonds and egg, then dusted with icing sugar and cinnamon. It is the showpiece dish of a Fassi feast and a genuine culinary landmark.
Order it at a traditional riad restaurant and share it as a starter; the classic version is made with pigeon, though chicken is common and a seafood version also exists.
DishKim sosita / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)The slow-cooked stew named after the conical earthenware pot it is made in, simmering meat or vegetables with preserved lemon, olives, prunes or almonds and warm spices until meltingly tender. It is the everyday backbone of Moroccan cooking and eaten with bread rather than cutlery.
Scoop it up with khobz bread as locals do, and try a Fassi speciality like lamb with prunes and almonds or chicken with preserved lemon and olives.
DishMiansari66 / Wikimedia Commons (CC0)A hearty tomato-based soup thick with lentils, chickpeas, herbs and often a little meat, brightened with lemon. It is comfort in a bowl, sold cheaply from medina stalls year-round and the traditional dish for breaking the fast during Ramadan.
Have a bowl from a busy street stall in the morning or evening, often paired with dates, a boiled egg or sweet chebakia pastries.
SweetMaor X / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)Light, chewy Moroccan doughnuts of unsweetened dough deep-fried into rings and eaten hot, plain or dusted with sugar. Made fresh at hole-in-the-wall stalls in the medina, they are a beloved breakfast and afternoon snack across the city.
Buy them straight from the fryer while still warm; vendors often thread them on a loop of palm cord to carry, and they are best eaten the same day with mint tea.
DrinkSarkar Sayantan / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)Sweet green gunpowder tea brewed with generous fresh mint and poured from a height into small glasses, the drink at the heart of Moroccan hospitality. It is offered to guests, sealed over deals in the souks and sipped slowly all day in tiled cafes.
Accepting a glass is a warm gesture and part of the culture; if you find it very sweet, you can politely ask for it with less sugar (bla sukkar or shwiya).
A square, flaky, pan-fried flatbread of folded and layered dough, crisp outside and soft within, eaten warm for breakfast or as a snack. It is served plain, drizzled with honey and butter, or stuffed with onions and spiced meat, and cooked fresh at medina griddles.
Have it hot off the griddle with honey and a glass of mint tea; the savoury stuffed version makes a cheap, filling street lunch.
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The cheapest way between Fes-Saiss Airport and the city, running roughly every half hour for a few dirhams. Slower and basic, and less handy with heavy bags, but fine for budget travellers who are travelling light.
Larger cream-coloured grand taxis wait outside arrivals and charge a fairly standard fixed fare of around 120 to 150 dirhams to the medina. Agree the price first. Easiest with luggage or on late arrivals, and shareable to cut the cost.
Fez has a mainline train station linking it to Casablanca, Rabat, Meknes and Tangier on the national ONCF network. Comfortable and good value for reaching the city from elsewhere in Morocco; the station is a short petit taxi ride from the medina.
Small red metered taxis are the standard way to get around the modern city and to the edges of the medina, which they cannot enter. Cheap when the meter is used; carry small change and insist on the compteur.
Older shared grand taxis run fixed routes to nearby towns and suburbs, filling up with several passengers and splitting a set fare. Very cheap and used by locals, though cramped and less comfortable than a private ride.
Fes el-Bali is entirely car-free, so walking is the only way to explore it, along steep, uneven and often crowded lanes. Comfortable shoes and an offline map are essential, and it is easy and normal to get temporarily lost.
Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) are the most comfortable, with warm days and mild evenings ideal for walking the medina. Summer is hot and dry, with strong midday sun that makes the alleys stifling, while winter is cool and can be wet, though it stays atmospheric and much quieter.
Two full days let you cover Fes el-Bali, the main madrasas, the tannery and a viewpoint at a relaxed pace, with time to get lost and eat well. Add a day if you want a hammam, the Nejjarine museum or a day trip to nearby Meknes and the Roman ruins of Volubilis.
You do not strictly need one, and an offline map is enough for confident walkers, but a licensed guide for a half day can add a lot of context and shield you from touts. Book through your riad or a licensed agency at an agreed price, and avoid the unofficial guides who approach you in the street.
Fez is generally safe and violent crime against visitors is rare. The main issues are persistent faux guides, hard-selling in shops and the odd taxi overcharge, all of which are annoyances rather than dangers and are handled with a firm, polite manner and a little planning.
Non-Muslims cannot enter working mosques in Fez, including the Al-Qarawiyyin mosque, but you can admire the courtyards through the gates. The madrasas such as Bou Inania and Al-Attarine, and the restored Al-Qarawiyyin Library, are open to all visitors for a small fee.
Morocco uses the dirham (MAD), a closed currency you mostly obtain on arrival. The medina runs largely on cash: carry small notes and coins for taxis, entry fees, street food and the souks, and expect card payment only at hotels and smarter restaurants.